Tuesday, September 25, 2012

The Idea of Dualisme | FENDI Spring/Summer 2013


Many of the furs were a combination of the likes of mink and broadtail 
fused with neoprene, while others were constructed with marquetry techniques, 
resulting in colorful striations and patterns with a 3-D effect ...

FENDI Spring/Summer 2013 by Karl Lagerfeld & Silvia Venturini Fendi

This was one of those upbeat, positive, faster-than-the-speed-of-light 
Fendi collections, an athletically powered processing of the notions of spatial 
geometry and dimensionality fused to the house’s traditional and time-honored 
artisanal skills. Lagerfeld giving us one of his recurrent jolts to “luxury” 
so that it doesn’t sink into the morass of banality.

You can, however, safely ignore the theory, and take on board that it led to
some deft reimagining of Fendi’s most iconic bags the Baguette, the Peekaboo, the 2Jours.
They’ve been stripped of their logo-ified buckles, reducing them to striking architectural forms,
colored scarlet, dove gray, cobalt, and terra-cotta, or embellished with tiny bumps akin to the
raised surface of Lego bricks. As for Fendi’s new and as-of-now-nameless bag, that’s a small
zippered cube suspended from a hand strap it’s like part of a Rubik’s Cube. And there was
certainly a playful toylike quality to the shoes, whose high block heels were covered in
pyramid studs, their multi-paneled uppers able to be altered at the wearer’s whim.

Of course, with all the stripes, banding, and interplay between 
architectural shapes and sculpted volumes that have been all over the runways,
the story of spring is shaping up to be about just how graphic fashion
can look, and no more so than at Fendi.  

“Duality,” said Silvia Venturini Fendi, who collaborates with Lagerfeld on the house’s collections. “That’s why the skirts are two different lengths. It’s about bringing two different elements together.” 

Those skirts were certainly some of the most effective (read: wearable) versions
of a trend that has hotfooted its way from New York. Yet sometimes the idea of dualism
was more simply, but no less strongly, expressed like a curve-shouldered white cotton
blouse with a geometrically patchworked leather pant and sky blue sweater dress,
its surface configured in a honeycomb effect, over a crisp shirt.

Flawless? Well, yes, there were moments of that.

Photo Credits/Source: © VOGUE
Runway: Photography by © Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway
Details: Photography by © Gianni Pucci/GoRunway

For top bundles in Mink contact to MAYER & CIE AG 

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