Giannini worked with flocked velvet in floral patterns reminiscent of
William Morris,
tapestry-inspired jacquards, printed silks, pajama-style
pantsuits and smoking jackets, all
emphasizing texture in a palette
running from black to burgundy and deep bottle-green.
She's always liked
a jodphur-style pant and a flat boot - part of Gucci's equestrian
heritage,
too, of course - and when she threw a huge pekan fur military
overcoat
on one of those looks, it was amazing ...
GUCCI Fall/Winter 2012/13 by Frida Giannini
Frida Giannini found her inspiration in the Pre-Raphaelite period, recasting
Edward Burne Jone's
consumptive heroines as a modern girls with plum-stained lips,
bleached
eyebrows, with their hair drawn away from their pale faces and twisted
into
flowing tendrils. The clothes they wore evoked a darkly poetic
opulence, at times nymphlike,
but with the fragility counterbalanced by
references to a briskly dandy-ish masculinity with a
dash of swaggering
World War I militaria. It made for an extensive and varied flow of
sophisticated clothes, softer and richer in tone, in a show which also
encompassed the emerging ideas in fall's fashion narrative.
encompassed the emerging ideas in fall's fashion narrative.
GUCCI Spring/Summer 2013 - Just Inspirations
Rome, a fantasy of
yachts, nightclubs, and beaches that was often shot (on aristocratic
models like Marisa Berenson and Veruschka) in the fashion photography of
Richard Avedon
and Gian Paolo Barbieri. Not for nothing, either, is Frida Giannini
a Roman-born designer.
She lives in the contemporary world, of course,
but for spring she was referencing those
photographers and filtering a
long-lost memory of late-sixties and early-seventies couturelike
principessa
glamour into her collection. In Giannini’s front row sat a modern aristocrat,
the equestrian show-jumper Charlotte Casiraghi, who Gucci
kits out for her sport.
She was wearing a tailored denim pantsuit.
All this background might suffice to explain where Giannini’s looks
are rooted in a time
when sporty-chic Italian women wore tailored crepe
tunics over pants for day, and changed
(for the endless parties in
palazzi) into dramatic couture dresses extravagantly
accessorized with
ever-more opulent jewelry.
Photo Credits/Source: © VOGUE
Fall/Winter 2012/13 Photography by © Monica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri
Spring/Summer 2013 Photography by ©Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway
Instagram by © ANDREA JANKE @andreajankeofficial
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